Main Website: Aba's Place
Aba's Blog:

Another spring hol in Spain

Managed to get home from a lovely week’s break in Spain despite the Icelandic volcanic ash cloud. My second stay at Casa Granadina was at least as fabulous as the first last October. Rosie, true to her word scoped out some great new walks. The weather was warm and sunny but mostly not too hot which was great.

For the first walk we headed out to Alfarnate. Spectacular mountain views and fields were a riot of colour with wild flowers - I especially loved the poppies.

Alfarnate

Other walks took us through the pine forests of Montes de Málaga…

Montes de Málaga

The old railway track out of Guaro taking in the Sulphur spring en route, great views of Lake Vinuela, unusually full after a long wet winter

Lake Vinuela

Back to the spectacular El Torcal (no ibex this time but lots of schoolchildren)…

For our final walk we set out from Casa Granadina under more sunny blue skies and took in the surrounding countryside. Excellent views of the Sierra de la Tejeda en route with Mount Maroma looming in the distance and views of the hilltop town of Comares at various points.

More pics from the walks in Casa Granadina May 10 album.

As well as leading us out on these fantastic walks, Rosie cooked up some fabulous 3 course meals most evenings including the best chocolate cake - check out the Casa Granadina blog for the recipe.

Comments

The end of the Cuba adventure…

Sadly the time to head back to Havana for flight home was upon us. Fortunately had the chance to pick up a few last minute souvenirs from the craft stalls in Cienfuegos. 3 or so hours later we were doing the airport check in thing.

Cuba adventure all over way too quick but a great, great time. Will miss journeys along the virtually empty Autopista Nacionale (motorway), complete with horse and trap galloping against the traffic, occasional stop while oxen sauntered across the 6 lanes, whole families on bicycles veering wildly into the traffic, beautiful people, towns and beaches, bright skies and lovely warm sunshine…

Fortunately back in Old Blighty even though it was still bloody freezing at least the sun was out…

For loads more photos of the trip head over to my Cuba gallery.

Time to get the spring break sorted, I can feel some walking in the mountains and more opportunities to practice my Spanish coming on – watch this space…

Comments

Cienfuegos

Smooth journey to Cienfuegos. Our Casa, Friendship Home in Cienfuegos [Ave 56 #2927 e/29 y 31, Cienfuegos t: (53)(43) 516 143 e: casamistad@correodecuba.cu] was fab. Hosts Leonora and Armando were friendly, chatty and helpful and English wasn’t a problem for them.

The house itself was beautiful and the roof terrace a great spot for sunset watching and star gazing. On our second night though we narrowly escaped having to spend the night up there. Armando hadn’t realised we were still up there and locked the gate… Fortunately we had mobile phone and their business card on us and a phone call eventually sorted it out. Armando released us, all sheepish-like, and very apologetic saying “I sorry, I sorry” whilst tittering behind his hand. We all had a good laugh about it.

Sunset

Cienfuegos itself is choc full of beautiful colonial buildings – a bit like a giant wedding cake. The walk down Punto Gordo is great and there’s a nice little sculpture park to hang out in en route if the old legs need a rest.

Palacio Azul

On day two, an early start for a day trip out to El Nicho. Leonora organised one of here friends to pick up in his tiny, battered old Fiat, drop off and connect with the 4 wheel drive tour lorry and wait around to return us to base.

It was an interesting drive… In what I can only assume was a bid to conserve fuel, we freewheeled with the engine off a good chunk of the way, and as and when required much violent pumping of brakes to bring the ancient vehicle to a graceful (ish) stop.

Battered ole Fiat

After a bit of hanging around waiting for the official tour to arrive at the pick up point, we were off on a bone shaking drive into the mountains. I got to sit up front with the driver which was great. En route, a brief stop in the town of Crucecitas. From the slogans on walls and buildings, the town obviously had some political significance. However, as I wasn’t part of the official tour party I thought it would be a bit cheeky to hang about eavesdropping.

Forward, onward to the beautiful waterfalls at El Nicho via dramatic scenery and looming “weather” as the skies darkened over the mountains. At El Nicho had great fun wandering about independently through the forest and falls. The falls are on 3 levels and it’s worth continuing along the path past the biggest falls for more spectacular views and back down to the bottom via a different path. For the brave (not me) there are natural pools for swimming, and life guards on site (who’ll probably try to make a bit of dosh on the side by trying to sell you something).

Waterfalls, El Nicho, Cienfuegos, Cuba

The uphill climb got me appetite whetted and very handily there’s a restaurant close to the entrance, with good, reasonably priced food (lunch included for official tours). Had a bit of time left after lunch so did some more wandering before it was time to leave.

In the evening after another lovely meal courtesy of our hosts, and another of Leonora’s “black cat mohitos” (best I had in Cuba bar none!), attempted to find some night life for our last night in Cuba but no joy… Baseball play offs were on and most of the country seemed pre occupied with that.

Comments

Trinidad

Yawn, stretch… up at 6 am, bus station for 7.30 am and a 6 hour trip to Trinidad via more beautiful countryside. Weather a bit more clement after another storm in the wee small hours.

Journey smooth and fairly uneventful. Fell in love with Trinidad almost immediately on arrival!

Old Trinidad

Booking for our first Casa Particulares fell through but fortunately someone else in the same family had a vacancy. Hostal Santander [223 Lino Pérez t: 53 (0-41)993 743] turned out to do very nicely thank you. Close to the bus station, balcony with great people watching scope, nice room and great home cooking courtesy of “Mamita”. Somehow we got by with our very limited Spanish and a good time was had by all.

Mornings were spent at the nearby (well 20 min bus ride) beautiful Ancon beach, walking, sunbathing, eating pizza and drinking beer.
Very amusingly ran into a couple of regulars from a pub back home that I used to drink in almost 20 years ago (hadn’t seen them since then).

Ancon Beach

Afternoons spent exploring town, picking up knick knacks from the craft market and people watching in the square or from the balcony of our casa. Evenings spent eating good home cooked food, heading up to the Casa de la Musica to watch the live band and locals dancing fluid relaxed salsa.

Comments

Santa Clara

2 hour journey from Trinidad to Santa Clara very pleasant and thankfully not too early a start for a change.

Arrived early afternoon at our lodgings for the night [Hostal Javier y Katia (Colón 225 e/ Síndico (E.P. Morales) y Nazereno (Serafín Garcia), Santa Clara t: (53)(42) 217 297 m: (53)524 74782 e: hostaljavierykatia@yahoo.es w: Hostal Javier y Katia is a great place to stay. The Hostal is located very centrally, Walking distance from the main attractions and sight seeing stops The room - more like a self contained appartment is great, Javier and Katia are very friendly, helpful and welcoming and have a lovely home. We didn’t speak a lot of Spanish but that was no problem! Both are hosts spoke very good English so between us we got by.
The meals were also really nice. We would definitely stay there again and thoroughly recommend it to others looking for a friendly Casa in Santa Clara…
www.palimpalem.com/5/Hostal-JyK/].

Very nice lodgings they were too. Close to centre and noteworthy sights. Javier was lovely and his command of English was way, way, way, better than our joint command of Spanish. Nevertheless he humoured us by agreeing to make us only speak to him in Spanish whilst he’d use English only to “improve” his English. He was on the winning team! Home cooked food was great too.

We were only in Santa Clara for a night but managed to pack a bit in, The Ché memorial / mausoleum was about a 20 minute walk from our Casa and we spent a good couple of hours wandering around once we got there. Really interesting.

Ché Memorial

From there we headed over to the other side of town and the Monumento  A La Toma Del Tren Blindado – site of the 90 minute battle led by Ernesto Che Guevara where he and a small band of 17 revolutionaries ambushed and derailed a train carrying 350 government soldiers and a bunch of guns and ammo – bye bye Batista…

Stopped off in the town square en route back to soak up some rays and watch a bit of traditional music and dancing.

Traditional Dancers

Then it was back to the Casa for a wonderful evening meal and chat with Javier. Then out to Club Mejunje [Marta Abreu 107, Santa Clara] to catch some music. Wasn’t music on that night but there was an amazing bit of theatre. Didn’t understand but a word or two, nevertheless it was absolutely captivating. Who knew how well a guy riding a broomstick could be transformed into a farmer on horseback rounding up very realistic looking and moving cattle which were essentially someone with a sheet thrown over them.

Comments

Havana

After rough night managed to get up and packed for pick up to Havana. Back to hotel Tejadillo and bed for me. Nasty tummy bug or something completely laid me out.

Pissed down with rain for much of the journey so didn’t feel too bad about not getting out. Managed to get out for about an hour in the evening. My travelling buddy had done a good rekky so we were able to focus me on getting orientated.

Hotel Tejadillo

Feeling decidedly more perky by next  morning but still not able to eat much (not necessarily a bad thing by this point!), lined up somewhere to stay for our next few stops then spent the day wandering around Havana.

Turned out to be very educational. We ran into this old Cuban guy “Frank” whose family was Jamaican and had come to Cuba in the ’30’s so he was raised in Cuba from very young. Got chatting to him on a bench and he turned out to be an “unofficial tour guide” hustling. But… He was very knowledgeable, knew his history and politics, and was a great raconteur.

Getting “Franks’s” insights into Cuba before and after the revolution was really interesting. He also took us a bit more off the beaten track into China Town, the slum areas as well as telling the stories behind some of the buildings and stuff on the more conventional sight seeing map.

Havana

In the evening took a stroll along the sea wall - Malecón, and watched the world go by.

Next day had a bit of a relapse so spent a lot it sitting around in old Havana a few short strides from our hotel. Early bus to Trinidad next morning meant another early night was desirable and the pissing rain helped encourage us off the streets and back to our hotel room.

Comments

Viñales Valley

Journey to Viñales Valley from Cayo Levisa was great. Our Taxi driver Paco, was friendly and obliging, stopping on request for food and photos. More stunning countryside and beautiful weather meant not too much disappointment that we’d missed the sunbathing opportunities that Cayo Levisa offered.

Our hotel in Viñales was the lovely La Ermita. On arrival, hung around just long enough to dump bags and jump the hop on hop off Viñales tour bus. Hopped on then hopped off in town after getting a quick peak at the Mural de la Prehistoria – to some a wonderful work, to others (myself included) a blot on a beautiful landscape.

La Ermita,

In town got our first opportunity to admire more up close the resourcefully maintained classic cars from a bygone era. Had a quick bite to eat then headed off for a shortish guided hike (approx 6km / 2 hours) in the Parque Nacionale. Taking in tobacco farms, the awesome mogotes (huge steep sided dome-like limestone rocks), a cave, and much other wonderful scenery.  Mentally parked the hot tip from the guide Alexis, about a local baseball game he was playing in the next morning.

Viñales Valley

In the evening, we hit town again to sample the local nightlife after watching a couple of guys put on an Afro-Cuban dance show at the hotel. In town while the smorgasboard of beautiful big people flung down some fancy salsa moves, the town’s kids threw themselves around to the strains of Latin pop at the free disco in the  adjacent square. All very civilised and a fitting end to a fantastic day.

After getting up early to sample the pool which was absolutely freezing, got in up to me waist and thought “nah” and headed back to bed. Leisurely brekky then off to watch the baseball game. Had no clue about the rules of play but my travelling buddy and sports fanatic came to the rescue and I had enough info to follow the proceedings.

Baseball

They take their baseball very seriously in Cuba! It was a close match, level pegging after 9 innings and at least two hours play.

Bailed out at that point as was feeling decidedly queasy – back to the hotel to throw up and crash out – no dancing for me and no opportunity to finish where we left off on the Viñales bus tour… Off to Havana in the morning.

Comments

Palma Rubia / Cayo Levisa

Picked up bright and early from hotel Tejadillo pitstop in Havana. Stopped off for quick tour of Las Terrazas and lunch at Hacienda Uníon.

Las Terrazas houses ruins of coffee plantations and has some good walking opportunities (which we unfortunately didn’t have time for). The countryside en route beautiful. Red, fertile earth, oxen ploughing fields, horses and cart… idyllic, peaceful rural life just getting on with it all around us.

At Palma Rubia, waited for about an hour while the captain decided whether anyone else was going to turn up (sod the timetable…) for the boat crossing. Journey across the water to the Island of Cayo Levisa took about 20 mins and the views were wonderful. Finally onto terra firma the other side and a short time to settle into our lovely sea front accommodation for the next couple of days.

Chalet

Dumped stuff and headed off for a walk along the beautiful long, white, sandy beach before dinner. The sea unbelievable shades of turquoise and blue… think we’re gonna like it here…

After dinner another walk along the beach in the moonlight (and extra illumination provided by head torch as required). Sea on one side, mangroves on the other. Banged on about how I was getting up before dawn to watch the sun rise (my thinking was if I say it to enough people, enough times, I might actually do it!).

Next morning dragged myself out of bed in the dark, took a lucky guess about which end of the beach the sun was gonna come up over, and was duly rewarded with the beauty of the changing light, the company of dawn creatures, a beautiful sunrise over the mangroves, and some great photo opportunities.

Beach, Cayo Levisa

Weather wasn’t quite hot and sunny enough for just blobbing on a sun bed, so more and closer exploration of the beach was in order for the day.

The following day dawned perfect for sun worshipping. Needless to say we had to rise for an early breakfast, catch the early boat back to the mainland and head down to our next stop - Viñales.

Comments

Havana

Arrived in Havana late after Virgin Airline flight delayed by 3 hours. Still, didn’t matter too much as we were just over nighting at Hotel Tejadillo in old Havana before travelling down to the lovely resort of Cayo Levisa tomorrow. Quick jamon y queso sandwich and first taste of Mohito before heading off to bed. Early start tomorrow …

Comments

Winter Sun

Glad to have finally sorted getting off for a bit of winter sun in Cuba after all the snow and cold weather we’re having. Ooh the anticipation… bright weather, warm sunshine on my skin, beautiful people, mohitos…ahh… counting down the weeks, can’t come soon enough

Comments

« Previous entries