Aba’s Blog

After rough night managed to get up and packed for pick up to Havana. Back to hotel Tejadillo and bed for me. Nasty tummy bug or something completely laid me out.

Pissed down with rain for much of the journey so didn’t feel too bad about not getting out. Managed to get out for about an hour in the evening. My travelling buddy had done a good rekky so we were able to focus me on getting orientated.

Feeling decidedly more perky by next  morning but still not able to eat much (not necessarily a bad thing by this point!), lined up somewhere to stay for our next few stops then spent the day wandering around Havana.

Turned out to be very educational. We ran into this old Cuban guy “Frank” whose family was Jamaican and had come to Cuba in the ’30’s so he was raised in Cuba from very young. Got chatting to him on a bench and he turned out to be an “unofficial tour guide” hustling. But… He was very knowledgeable, knew his history and politics, and was a great raconteur.

Getting “Franks’s” insights into Cuba before and after the revolution was really interesting. He also took us a bit more off the beaten track into China Town, the slum areas as well as telling the stories behind some of the buildings and stuff on the more conventional sight seeing map.

In the evening took a stroll along the sea wall - Malecón, and watched the world go by.

Next day had a bit of a relapse so spent a lot it sitting around in old Havana a few short strides from our hotel. Early bus to Trinidad next morning meant another early night was desirable and the pissing rain helped encourage us off the streets and back to our hotel room.

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Journey to Viñales Valley from Cayo Levisa was great. Our Taxi driver Paco, was friendly and obliging, stopping on request for food and photos. More stunning countryside and beautiful weather meant not too much disappointment that we’d missed the sunbathing opportunities that Cayo Levisa offered.

Our hotel in Viñales was the lovely La Ermita. On arrival, hung around just long enough to dump bags and jump the hop on hop off Viñales tour bus. Hopped on then hopped off in town after getting a quick peak at the Mural de la Prehistoria – to some a wonderful work, to others (myself included) a blot on a beautiful landscape.

In town got our first opportunity to admire more up close the resourcefully maintained classic cars from a bygone era. Had a quick bite to eat then headed off for a shortish guided hike (approx 6km / 2 hours) in the Parque Nacionale. Taking in tobacco farms, the awesome mogotes (huge steep sided dome-like limestone rocks), a cave, and much other wonderful scenery.  Mentally parked the hot tip from the guide Alexis, about a local baseball game he was playing in the next morning.

In the evening, we hit town again to sample the local nightlife after watching a couple of guys put on an Afro-Cuban dance show at the hotel. In town while the smorgasboard of beautiful big people flung down some fancy salsa moves, the town’s kids threw themselves around to the strains of Latin pop at the free disco in the  adjacent square. All very civilised and a fitting end to a fantastic day.

After getting up early to sample the pool which was absolutely freezing, got in up to me waist and thought “nah” and headed back to bed. Leisurely brekky then off to watch the baseball game. Had no clue about the rules of play but my travelling buddy and sports fanatic came to the rescue and I had enough info to follow the proceedings.

They take their baseball very seriously in Cuba! It was a close match, level pegging after 9 innings and at least two hours play.

Bailed out at that point as was feeling decidedly queasy – back to the hotel to throw up and crash out – no dancing for me and no opportunity to finish where we left off on the Viñales bus tour… Off to Havana in the morning.

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Picked up bright and early from hotel Tejadillo pitstop in Havana. Stopped off for quick tour of Las Terrazas and lunch at Hacienda Uníon.

Las Terrazas houses ruins of coffee plantations and has some good walking opportunities (which we unfortunately didn’t have time for). The countryside en route beautiful. Red, fertile earth, oxen ploughing fields, horses and cart… idyllic, peaceful rural life just getting on with it all around us.

At Palma Rubia, waited for about an hour while the captain decided whether anyone else was going to turn up (sod the timetable…) for the boat crossing. Journey across the water to the Island of Cayo Levisa took about 20 mins and the views were wonderful. Finally onto terra firma the other side and a short time to settle into our lovely sea front accommodation for the next couple of days.

Dumped stuff and headed off for a walk along the beautiful long, white, sandy beach before dinner. The sea unbelievable shades of turquoise and blue… think we’re gonna like it here…

After dinner another walk along the beach in the moonlight (and extra illumination provided by head torch as required). Sea on one side, mangroves on the other. Banged on about how I was getting up before dawn to watch the sun rise (my thinking was if I say it to enough people, enough times, I might actually do it!).

Next morning dragged myself out of bed in the dark, took a lucky guess about which end of the beach the sun was gonna come up over, and was duly rewarded with the beauty of the changing light, the company of dawn creatures, a beautiful sunrise over the mangroves, and some great photo opportunities.

Weather wasn’t quite hot and sunny enough for just blobbing on a sun bed, so more and closer exploration of the beach was in order for the day.

The following day dawned perfect for sun worshipping. Needless to say we had to rise for an early breakfast, catch the early boat back to the mainland and head down to our next stop - Viñales.

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Arrived in Havana late after Virgin Airline flight delayed by 3 hours. Still, didn’t matter too much as we were just over nighting at Hotel Tejadillo in old Havana before travelling down to the lovely resort of Cayo Levisa tomorrow. Quick jamon y queso sandwich and first taste of Mohito before heading off to bed. Early start tomorrow …

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